Sgt Eagle in Normandy
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My NORMANDY holidays
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A Screaming Eagle associate on OMAHA BEACH
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An encounter between the present and the past
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Why Normandy? Why OMAHA beach?
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Since I was a teenager, I've always wanted to visit Normandy because I wanted to see this part of France where so many young American soldiers fought and died on <<D.Day>> 6 June 1944.Since I discovered Normandy in September 2001, I've really got a crush on it, not only because of the historical part of Normandy and WW2 but also because of the real feeling of peace I encountered in the Normandy bocage.I usually stay on a farm at Colleville Sur Mer <<OMAHA BEACH>>, located in the FOX sector of the landing beach, it was in this part of France where the BIG RED ONE or US 1st Infantry division met history on the 6th of June 1944.
LE CLOS TASSIN
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The farm called "Le Clos Tassin" is a family business, hold by Marie Therese and Daniel Picquenard and is at a distance of 10 kilometers of OMAHA BEACH. E-mail www.multimania .com/clostassin
In fact I've chosen this village because of his central situation on the beach landings area and the Contentin peninsula.Facing the sea on OMAHA BEACH, on your left side far on horizon you can see the famous POINTE DU HOC cliffs, I don't have to say that behind the POINTE DU HOC, following the road to CHERBOURG you encounter the area where the 101st Airborne division had his RENDEZ VOUS WITH DESTINY, the UTAH BEACH area.On the right side you can see the entrance of the PORT EN BESSIN harbor, part of the BRITISH beach-landing sector on the 6th of June 1944.
Colleville Sur Mer (Calvados):
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Located between SAINTE HONORINE DES PERTES and SAINT LAURENT SUR MER at 3Okm from BAYEUX, COLLEVILLE SUR MER is a picturesque village where live now is warm peaceful and beautiful, it's a farmers community that makes her living from agriculture, CALVADOS and tourism.Even with the modernization, live hasn't changed much since 1944,the citizens are rather calm and friendly hosts who have much respect for those who liberated them almost 60 years ago, no mass culture of the past with souvenirs shops every meter, but silence and peace, the kind of peace the GI's who on D.Day didn't make it found on the there located US Cemetery, their last resting place.
The US Cemetery:
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Located between the exit of COLLEVILLE SUR MER and the entrance of SAINT LAURENT SUR MER, on the top of the OMAHA BEACH dunes, you find the US Cemetery, last resting place for 9387 US soldiers who died on and in the battles after D.DAY.
The cemetery is a beautiful site where white crosses and trees exchange places filling up a large space between the gardens of the missing, the statue remembering the youth coming from the sea, the ponds of eternal reflection and recollection, the D.DAY chapel and the statues representing France and The United States of America.On the seaside you'll encounter a balcony over viewing the entire OMAHA landing beach and in the middle of this balcony a table with the D.DAY operation map giving the visitors a chance to overview and locate every peace of the beach and the German defensive installations.Every year since 2001, I visit the cemetery and every time the same sensation of pain grows in my hart, thinking about the price of peace and freedom, those young men paid, all those young lives never lived, who stopped in the summer of 1944.
The 1st Infantry Division Monument:
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Overlooking the dune tops, location of the formal German defense site WN62, between the US cemetery and OMAHA beach, you find a white granite obelisk in remembrance of the soldiers of the BIG RED ONE who died on D.DAY taking those dune tops opening the first causeways to freedom. The monument faces FOX red and FOX green the landing area of the US 1st infantry division on top of Wiederstands Nest(WN)62.The same area that inspired Ernest Hemingway to baptize this beach to BLOODY OMAHA, when he wrote about the disaster he found from FOX green to DOG Green (Vierville) OMAHA beach,giving him an awful first impression of his landing beach on D.DAY.As peaceful the site is nowadays as rough it was back in 1944,when over 1000 soldiers lost their lives in the first hours of D.DAY, keeping the paratroopers in mind who died earlier between 5 and 6 June 1944.
The 5th engineers monument:
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Build on the roof of a bunker of Wn62; this smaller monument brings a tribute to the engineers who died in the morning of 6 June 1944.The engineers were honored with the French Croix de Guerre.Sadly, at this moment Colleville Sur Mer hasn't any museum yet, but in the future a project has been made to create a BIG RED ONE museum on the road near the cemetery.You can always visit in the mean time the Wn62 bunker site in the dunes near the beach.When we continue our walk on Omaha beach in the direction of Vierville we encounter Saint Laurent Sur Mer.
Saint Laurent Sur Mer (Calvados):
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Located on the beach part called Easy Red and Green, you find the small village of Saint Laurent sur Mer. Near the beach at the Place du Monument, you find a terrific Hotel, Bar, Restaurant: D.DAY HOUSE. When I'm there I always manage to eat there and the meals are great and not too expensive and the hosts JJ (Jean Jacques) and Florence Gaffie are extraordinary people, everyone is always welcome to enjoy the Bonne Ambiance.
E mail : jj Gaffie@wanadoo.fr
Monument for the 1st and 29th Infantry divisions:
Located on the main beach exit and access at Saint Laurent Sur Mer this huge monument was erected to remember what happened here on D.Day and is also the Omaha Beach 0km signpost marking the Liberty in Europe road.
AQUATINT :
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When you are in front of the Omaha Beach monument on the left side, posted on the seashore wall you'll find a commemorative plate remembering OPERATION AQUATINT.This operation took place on September the 17th 1942,British Royal commandos made a raid on Omaha Beach, before it was even named like this, the target: catch the near Vierville located German beachdefence general commander.The operation failed and major commander March Phillipps and two of his men were killed in action, their graves are located on the Church cemetery in the center of Saint Laurent Sur Mer.
The OMAHA BEACH 6 JUIN 1944 MEMORIAL MUSEUM:
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Following the road coming from the Place du monument, leading to the center of Saint Laurent Sur Mer, you?ll encounter the Omaha Beach 6 juin 1944 Memorial Museum.This museum exhibits several German and American uniforms on mannequins and tells the story of Omaha Beach from the building of the defenses till D.Day . Several weapons and objects of both sides are also exhibited.
A fine museum if you ask me.
You can't miss it because you'll see the US Sherman tank standing at the parking entrance first, followed by a landing craft, the name of the museum and the colors of the OMAHA units also are good visible above the museum entrance. If one day you visit Saint Laurent Sur Mer, stop at the OMAHA BEACH MEMORIAL MUSEUM it's worth to stop and to visit it.
The RUQUET BATTERY:
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Signaled by road signs and following them, you'll encounter the Ruquet battery bunker overlooking the beach and dune area.On the reinforced bunker wall side there's a monument to the men who fought and died wearing the colors of the 2nd US Infantry division.This bunker was once used as HQ by the 2nd Infantry division and the Engineers.The PAK 44 gun that did many damages on D.Day is still present in his emplacement.
VIERVILLE SUR MER:
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Going to Vierville Sur Mer, you enter DOG sector, the sector where Spielberg starts D.Day in Saving Private Ryan.When you stand on the beach facing Vierville, you soon understand why Omaha was so bloody.Facing us, the PAK 88 gun bunker assures we can figure it out, understanding that in Colleville an other PAK 88 bunker was standing in our back and keeping in mind the fact both guns could reach Saint Laurent, not talking about the many hidden MG nests and bunkers in the hills and the camouflaged bunkers looking like houses and even hidden in a real hotel/casino in Vierville, we can understand that the first waves landing on Omaha beach didn't have a chance.The PAK 88 bunker nowadays has become a US National monument to the brave US soldiers who faced the German enemy and pulled trough to liberate Europe.In the back of the monument you'll see the cliffs of the Pointe de la Perc?e, the 5th Ranger division had to take on D.Day, to eliminate the radar station located there.Facing the monument you'll find in the cliff wall on your left a plate remembering the emplacement of the anti tank wall the US 29th Infantry division destroyed opening the road to Isigny and Grandcamp Maisy.Following this road on the right side you'll encounter l'hotel Du Casino, rebuild in his original state in the 50's.On the wall following the casino hotel you'll find a commemorative plate to the Rangers.
On a green space in the middle of the road a monument too the 29th Infantry division was erected followed by a monument to the engineers.On the top of the road leading to the center of Vierville to the left and to Isigny on the right you'll encounter when you're heading toward Isigny the small castle that served as HQ to the harbor command of Mulberry A once located at Omaha beach but destroyed by a storm before it was totally finished not even a month after D.Day.
THE OMAHA D.DAY MUSEUM:
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On the same road on the right side, when you're heading towards Isigny you'll find, located in an ancient US ARMY depot the D.Day Omaha museum.The museum shows the uniforms on both sides present in this section of Omaha beach the uniforms of both Air forces are also present and even a diorama of the church of Ste M?re Eglise.The museum director is a passionate man, who wants with friends, to rebuild a part of mulberry a, and the museum is worth to visit and also very complete, like all the Normandy museums.
Following the road near the Vierville museum we are heading towards Gradcamp-Maisy and the nearby situated Ranger sites, The Pointe de la Perc?e and the Pointe du Hoc, I followed this road on foot, it took an hour and half to get there, in war time it took the reinforcements 2 full days of hard combat to join the Rangers stuck on the Pointe du Hoc. (Follow D514 towards Isigny and Cherbourg).
1) LA POINTE et RAZ de la PERCEE :
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On the Pointe de la Percee military intelligence had signaled the presence of a radar station, the 5th Rangers Bn was ordered to take this place and to join the 2nd Rangers Bn at the Pointe du Hoc, after several hours of combat on OMAHA beach la Perc?e was taken and at 13.00 hours the 5th Rangers Bn begun marching on between the enemy lines for 8 kilometers that 6th June 1944 nobody knew that it would take an other 48 hours before the 2nd Rangers Bn would be relieved even has the 5th Rangers Bn putted down a D-Day record reaching the Pointe du Hoc area at 21.00 hrs . On the Pointe de la Perc?e nowadays nothing remembers the presence of the radar station, and the battle that took place in this area, nature took this site back.
We continue our road heading towards Grandcamp-Maisy.
2) LA POINTE DU HOC:
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Situated between the Point de la Percee and Grandcamp-Maisy, we reach the Pointe du Hoc, but what is the Pointe du Hoc?
Short history:
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Back in 1943 military intelligence spotted by air-reconnaissance the Pointe du Hoc and her dangerous looking battery .If the information was right those guns could hit Omaha beach and slaughter the troops landing there, regular air-raid shelling had now results the battery appeared to stay intact - what intelligence didn't now was that the air-raid shelling had their results, the Germans had moved the guns land inwards-so the site had to be taken by sea, Colonel James Rudder and the 2nd US Rangers Bn were assigned to bring this task to a good end and they did , they took the Pointe du Hoc ,resembling at a lunar landscape ,climbing up the cliffs coming from the seashore and finding no real but fake guns emplaced in their bunkers.
Casualties were heavy the 2nd Rangers Bn lost 81 members taking this site and when holding it for 48 hours, they were reduced to 50 combat able Rangers, starting the assault with 225 Rangers.
The Pointe nowadays:
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The Pointe du Hoc nowadays is a place of remembrance, it's still a lunar landscape and the bunkers are still empty, on the parking tourist can admire the fake guns which replaced the real guns.
On the observation and artillery directing post bunker a monument to Colonel Rudder and the 2nd Rangers Bn was installed to remember what they did on the 6th of June 1944.
The Pointe du Hoc is worth the stop.
Leaving the Pointe du Hoc we are now heading towards Isigny and:
GRANDCAMP MAISY:
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Continuing on the road coming from the Pointe du Hoc and heading to Carentan -Cherbourg at a distance of exactly 2,5 km from the Pointe, you'll encounter the small fishers harbor village named Grandcamp Maisy.
Before entering the village you'll encounter a roundabout with in the center of it a monument dedicated to Sgt Peregory of the National Guards .The huge marble stone has the heroic story of Sgt Peregory a Medal of Honor recipient, buried on the Colleville cemetery, in scripted on it.
Reaching the center of Grandcamp-Maisy, we encounter the port estuary, this port was also guarded by the Germans back in 1944, at each side of the port entrance two pillboxes where placed to protect the port for a possible invasion, that never came, Grandcamp was taken by land, by the Rangers.
French crews bombers monument
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This monument commemorates the engagement of the Heavy French crews bombardment groups on 6 June 1944, and their action, night and day, in German industry destruction.
Situation : facing the port
In the Port area you'll find some nice little fish restaurants and Norman fishermen Pubs with possibilities for local snacks.
Going to the seashore on the dike you'll encounter the Musee des Rangers where you can visit a small exhibition on the Rangers who landed on OMAHA Beach and on the Pointe du Hoc.
Rangers museum
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This museum recalls the history of top rank american Rangers unit, who assaulted La pointe du Hoc on the D-Day. Uniforms and equipments revive action of the american Rangers.
Address and telephone : 30 Crampon quay - 14450 Grandcamp-Maisy
Tel : 02 31 92 33 51 (on the waterfront, follow the road-sign)
On the dike you can take a Belgian beer in one of the local seashore pubs.
We continue our road, passing Isigny and heading towards the by Airborne soldiers well known village of:
SAINTE-MERE-EGLISE:
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Now we're heading towards Ste-Mère-Eglise, following the same road direction Isigny -Carentan-Cherbourg, has you'll see to visit Ste-Mère-Eglise, you'll first pass Carentan and Ste Marie du Mont on the road to Cherbourg.
Ste-Mère-Eglise has become famous with on D-Day not because it was one of the head goals of the 82nd Airborne division, but because of one man Pvt John Steele who's parachute was hooked on the church tower during the dramatic mislanding in the center of Ste-Mère-Eglise, from this position the poor private saw how the Germans killed the members of his stick, during that night from 5 to 6 June 1944.
Parachutists stained glass windows
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In Sainte-Mère-Eglise church, two stained glass windows commemorate liberation of the town on 6 June 1944, by the 82nd Airborne para-chutists. A dummy hangs up on the bell tower and remembers the story of American parachutist John Steele.
Situation : in front of the town hall
John Steele died in the sixties, but a mannequin hooked on the church tower remembers us his adventure.
82nd Aiborne plate
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Sainte-Mère-Eglise
This plate is dedicated to four parachutists, of the 505th Parachutist infantry regiment company C, killed there on 6 June 1944.
Situation : in the town center, Cayenne street
On the site where was located the burning house we see in the Longest Day, you'll encounter the US AIRBORNE Museum this museum houses a C-47 Dakota and an Horsa glider straight out this period.
Airborne troops museum
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The museum is located in a large park, it is composed of two buildings. The first one, in parachute shape, shelters a glider, many weapons and equipment; one can view a film recalling the fightings from 5 to 6 June 1944. The second building presents a transport aircraft Douglas C47, uniforms and historic objects. Outside a Sherman tank is exposed.
Address and telephone : 14, Eisenhower street - 50480 Sainte-Mère-?glise - Tel : 02 33 41 41 35
You'll also find many materials, photographs and uniforms telling us the story of the paratroopers and the D-Day droppings.
A visit you can't miss.
Sainte-Mère-Eglise road sign VOIE DE LA LIBERTEE 0 Km
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This 0 kilometer borne is the beginning of the Freedom way, it commemorates Sainte-Mère-Eglise as the first city liberated in Europe on 5 and 6 June 1944.
Situation : in front of the town hall
Back in 44 a temporary cemetery was erected here in Ste-Mère-Eglise, the troopers who were buried here are now mostly buried at the Colleville cemetery or in the USA a commemorative plate remembers the presence of this cemetery back then.
American cemeteries monuments situated in and round Sainte-Mère-Eglise
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Three monuments indicate temporary cemeteries established around Sainte-Mère-Eglise from 1944 to 1948.
Situation : the cemetery nr 1 in the town center near the sports ground, the cemetery nr2 at the town exit, on Chef-du-Pont road, the cemetery nr3 south of Sainte-Mère-Eglise, on the D70 road, crossroads near the motorway
In the area of the village you'll still find graveyards who will never carry crosses, the Merderet Swamps were many troopers encountered death, drowning in the swamps because General Feldmarchal Rommel ordered the overflow of the Merderet river by enabling the river locks.
Sainte-Mère-Eglise BORNE DE LA LIBERTEE
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This monument commemorates the liberation of Sainte-Mère-Eglise on 6 June 1944, by the 82nd and the 101st American parachutist divisions.
Situation : on the main place
THE SHERMAN TANK
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The American Sherman tank M4 made up the main equipment of the Allied armoured divisions; it was armed with a 75 mm gun, it was steered by a four men team.
Situation : in the park of Airborne troops museum
STELE TO THE 505th
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This stele commemorates the action of the 505th Parachute regiment of the 82nd Airborne who liberated Sainte-Mère-Eglise, on 6 June 1944 at 4:30 a. m..
Situation : at the southern gate of the town
Sainte-Mère-Eglise LIBERATORS STELE
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This stele honors Generals Ridgway and Gavin, and all the liberators of Sainte-Mère-Eglise.
Situation : in front of the town hall
La Londe AIRFIELD STELE
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This stele indicates the establishment of an airfield, used from 12 June to 26 July 1944, and built by the 552nd AAA AW battallion, commanded by colonel Benjamin M. Warfield.
Situation : 2 km away from Sainte-Mère-Eglise, on the D17 road toward Beuzeville-au-Plain
MORE ON NEXT VISIT !!!!
CURRAHEE !!!!!!
MARK W /BELGIUM
[/QUOTE]"From this day to the ending of the World, ...we in it shall be remembered... we band of brothers" Henry V William Shakespear.[QUOTE]